#Mac mini power supply specs install#
Turns out the Mirror-Door G4 had its own special install of OS 9 and none other will work with it. OS X 10.4.10 boots fine, but waitaminit.OS 9 won't boot! What's going on? One more check of the wiring, and then I transfered over my two hard drives from my Digital Audio G4. That's got to be addressed, as I want the G4 to look stock from the outside. I threaded the power cord through where it would have connected to the old PSU. It took six cable ties in total to wrap around from the top to join up under the PSU once it was in place. Don't want little bits of metal falling off onto the mobo once it's all back together! The case was given a good vacuum and any metal flash still stuck to the drilled holes was knocked off. I made a starter hole using a small bit first, as a larger bit will wander around the case metal before getting a bite. With the case on its side and the motherboard up out of the way, I drilled four 7/32" holes, roughly eyeballed to where the case will be sitting underneath. I decided to use cable ties, as they're strong enough to do the job, and easier than making brackets and using rivets or tapping threads in the case metal. If I need to salvage the ATX PSU at some point, it's only 4 wires to reconnect.Īnd the link where I got my inspiration from:īased on the Twilight in Efeion blog linked above, and from my own test fitting, a regular ATX PSU will not fit in the case anywhere except above the optical drives. I didn't have a female connector for that, so I relented and cut the ATX supply wires and used some spare wire to make an extension that would keep those 4 wires the same total length as those going through the ATX connectors. The only issue I had here was the 4-pin extension. There are more 3.3V and 12V lines on the MDD PSU than are provided by the ATX PSU, so I've attached two MDD wires to one ATX wire in a couple of spots. After double-checking the wiring here and here, it's down to connecting the right colours together. The PSU will be mounted above the optical drives.which is as far as I can tell the only place a regular size ATX PSU will fit in that case. I picked up a 500W Cooler Master PSU that has a nice 120mm fan and an open grill at the back that should allow for good ventilation inside the case. It's nicer looking than my old stand-by, black tape, and makes a stronger connection. I used heat-shrink tubing to cover the solder joints. The wiring loom has been cut from the old power supply, and is ready for soldering. I'd considered cutting the ATX connector off the new PSU and soldering wire to loom from the MDD PSU, but thought this would be a bit cleaner and gives me the option of salvaging the new PSU if something goes wrong. This is the ATX extension I'll be using for the connector. There's nothing visibly wrong that might have been an easy fix, and the PSU is pretty densely packed and has a lot of silicon caulk applied to keep components from shifting. Tried replacing it, but the new fuse blew as soon as it was connected to the mains. When I opened it up, I found the fuse was blown. (thumbnails are clickable for larger image) There isn't too much out there on mirror-door to ATX conversions, despite their flaky power supplies, so if there's some interest, I'll snap some photos while I'm doing the wiring and installing.įrom what limited info I've found on the MDD conversion, the 28V is only necessary if you're going to use the ADC conector, and probably firewire. I picked up a better PSU, with a rating closer to that of the original, and wanted to know if there was any interest in having the process documented. I've just picked up a mirror-door G4 for cheap, sold as a "won't power on" unit.Īfter a quick test, and it does power up with a re-wired ATX power supply.
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